Here I have cut the ends off the planks and saved them for bulkheads later.
Also I cut the curves in the ends of the sides, for details on how to measure the curve see the planspage.
Glue and screw the transoms on, they really are just 2.5" pieces.
I didn't even cut a bevel in them, just 2.5" x 3/4" strip of wood.
The bottom is 6' long, from end to end around the curves by 32" wide.
I didn't have a piece of 1/4" plywood that big in stock, so I used a couple of smaller pieces, here is the bigger one.
Lots of titebond II glue on the sides, if the glue isn't squeezing out of the joint and dripping down the sides, then you aren't using enough glue.
I figure that 50% loss of glue to dripping and mopping up with paper towels is perfectly acceptable, especially at how cheap titebond II is.
I nailed the flat part on first, then leaned on the plywood and nailed along the way to get the plywood to hold it's curve.
I am often asked by new builders how I was able to bend the plywood.
Well, if you try to bend it in the air, it is difficult.
But if you are bending the plywood around a form (like the sides of this boat), it will adhere to the form.
The most important thing to do is bend it a little, and put in a nail, then bend some more, put in another nail.
This boat uses a very simple curve that is very easy to get the 1/4" plywood to match.
The middle was flexing up a bit, so I put in a couple of screws to hold it down.
Later I'll remove these screws.
I put the other half of the bottom on, and it is really looking like a boat.
To join the bottom pieces, I put a butt strap across the inside which is really just a strip of plywood that is glued on.
The water bottles are to put some pressure on the joint when it is curing.
Back to Main Page